Saturday 26 March 2011

Age of Androgyny


Are we in the Age of Androgyny in fashion? 

Fashion models have become progressively skinner since the curvy 90s losing their female contours and even male models being less toned and more lean.  The space between a female and male body on a catwalk is unmistakably smaller than 2 decades ago.  

The New York Times names 2010 as the Year of the Transsexual.  Now with the recent runway success of model new comer Andrej Pejic…. Is 2011 the Year of the Androgynous?

The fashion industry has been blurring the lines between male (Andro) and female (Gyn) for decades now. Music has also leant a helping hand with pop culture icons such as George Michael, Madonna and Michael Jackson.  More recently, Agynes Deyn and Tilda Swinton have represented a more asexual image

It has now become a fashion statement to be androgenous, with the boyish looks taking to the catwalks each season by some designer.  This year it was Karl Lagerfield who wants the ladies to “dress up in mannish shapes” for AW11. 
Interestingly, the direction of morphing of genders seems to be far more acceptable from female to male – we all remember Madonna’s song “What it feel like for a girl?” asking if men feel it to be degrading to look like a girl? I guess designers for female collections have had more creative freedom to give the ladies a limitless choice of garments with feminine and masculine undertones and cuts. 

The path of androgyny for men has been expressed, but most freely amongst the homosexual, bi-sexual and transgendered communities and more recently the newly formed metrosexual group.  How many men do you know that look at a fashion image and rule an outfit out because it “looks too gay?”.  The good news is this is changing - there has been recent mainstream developments to suggest that straight “Mens-Men” are becoming comfortable with appearing what we know as stereotypically-more-feminine.  


This is very evident in mens’ personal style these days, the Metro-Man is now wearing skinny jeans, man-bags and even into male grooming.  Jean Paul Gaultier’s makeup range for men – Monsieur is a further step.


The biggest leap however has to come from Andrej Pejic – half Serbain, half Croatian model from Australia. 

After being scouted while working in Macdonalds HE (yes he not she) is now represented by Storm and has walked in all the major runways for male and FEMALE collections….


Most famously he showcased the famous Gaultier wedding dress that was later worn by Rihanna at Grammys.


He was already a household name in men fashion, but seems to have taken the female fashion world by storm with his long golden hair, high cheekbones and full lips.  He is now in hot demand for womenswear shows and ad campaigns posing with female counter-parts to emphasise his synergy:

Here Andrej is on the right posing with female model Jani K


 So what is it about Andrej that is proving so popular, Clare Coulson, fashion features director of Harper's Bazaar explains why “"Andrej is the perfect coat-hanger," "Clothes look best on someone who is tall and skinny, on a long and lean silhouette."

It is obvious the space for Pejic to be a female only exists because females have been becoming more masculine for years.  Catwalk models have now lost their perky breasts, curvy hips and buttocks that were associated with a female body and has changed society’s view of what a female body should look like.  So skinny Pejic with his pretty angular face can emulate a female today which could never have been done 20 years ago.

Harriet Quick, Vogue fashion features director’s opinion is "For the past decade, fashion has concentrated on the alpha male and alpha female stereotype. Now it's all about questioning sexuality and blurring the boundaries. Andrej is reflecting our times - he's what's out there; he's reflecting culture.”

A culture I believe that is starting to defy the boys in blue and girls in pink label and beginning to really experiment with what it means to be ME….


The age of androgyny - Are we heading for a new generation of Asexual beings?

1 comment:

  1. Wow, this is so interesting - men and women morphing into one! Thing is, history tends to repeat itself and once the novelty of a new trend phases out, we often return to how things used to be. We appreciate old styles of music, dress, films, to name but a few. With the likes of strong, feminine figures such as Rihanna, Beyonce and Scarlet Johansson gracing screens and magazines, I'm waiting for the curvy woman comeback!!

    ReplyDelete